Program
Latin American Studies
College
Arts and Sciences
Student Level
Master's
Start Date
10-11-2022 4:30 PM
End Date
10-11-2022 5:30 PM
Abstract
"Mezcal is a liquid representation of indigenous culture throughout México." I will never forget my mentor's words when I attended a mezcal tasting he curated in 2015. I had been working with destilados de agave since 2009, before mezcal boomed into the global market, yet I hadn't been able to pin-point what set mezcal uniquely apart from other distillates I worked with throughout my career. It wasn't until I heard his definition that it hit me - mezcal is cultural essence in a bottle. Before journeying profitably across international borders, mezcal traditionally remained in México being sold amongst pueblos and was made for local occasions like weddings and baptisms. But how is this liquid icon viewed now that it's firmly rooted in the global scene? It's become a multi-million-dollar market that's forecasted by producers in México, and U.S. market researchers, to surely increase. It's become a commodity for celebrities, lifestyle "brands," canned hard seltzer options, and other avenues that veer away from its essence. Yet who's seeing the profits? Consider, too, the local impacts of mass production. During frequent México trips to study mezcal-producing regions, I've seen first-hand how heavy production increase has many agave farmers and producers struggling. They have become keenly aware, and more outspoken, of ecological impacts on their lands. They're challenged to keep pace with demand without resorting to monocropping or using intrusive methods that erase traditional production practices. Recent droughts, especially in the state of Oaxaca which produces over 90 percent of the nation's mezcal, have locals and businesses vying for water. Deforestation is problematic as wood is essential fuel for agave roasting and distillation processes. Not to be forgotten is the cultural impact. As agave and mezcal become global commodities their cultural significance is being lost. Agave is an integral part of Mexican culture as evidenced in many Mesoamerican codices. It is vital to conduct research about agave and mezcal producers and the socio-economic, ecological, and cultural impacts that global demand has placed on them in order to offer more truthful narratives, and to preserve the integrity of México's iconic plant and liquid essence.
Living Roots: Indigenous Agave and Mezcal Cultures
"Mezcal is a liquid representation of indigenous culture throughout México." I will never forget my mentor's words when I attended a mezcal tasting he curated in 2015. I had been working with destilados de agave since 2009, before mezcal boomed into the global market, yet I hadn't been able to pin-point what set mezcal uniquely apart from other distillates I worked with throughout my career. It wasn't until I heard his definition that it hit me - mezcal is cultural essence in a bottle. Before journeying profitably across international borders, mezcal traditionally remained in México being sold amongst pueblos and was made for local occasions like weddings and baptisms. But how is this liquid icon viewed now that it's firmly rooted in the global scene? It's become a multi-million-dollar market that's forecasted by producers in México, and U.S. market researchers, to surely increase. It's become a commodity for celebrities, lifestyle "brands," canned hard seltzer options, and other avenues that veer away from its essence. Yet who's seeing the profits? Consider, too, the local impacts of mass production. During frequent México trips to study mezcal-producing regions, I've seen first-hand how heavy production increase has many agave farmers and producers struggling. They have become keenly aware, and more outspoken, of ecological impacts on their lands. They're challenged to keep pace with demand without resorting to monocropping or using intrusive methods that erase traditional production practices. Recent droughts, especially in the state of Oaxaca which produces over 90 percent of the nation's mezcal, have locals and businesses vying for water. Deforestation is problematic as wood is essential fuel for agave roasting and distillation processes. Not to be forgotten is the cultural impact. As agave and mezcal become global commodities their cultural significance is being lost. Agave is an integral part of Mexican culture as evidenced in many Mesoamerican codices. It is vital to conduct research about agave and mezcal producers and the socio-economic, ecological, and cultural impacts that global demand has placed on them in order to offer more truthful narratives, and to preserve the integrity of México's iconic plant and liquid essence.
